Tessuti Awards 2010

About my Linen and Lace

• Pattern Used: My own design
• Fabrics Used: Bodice sections, pin-tucking and skirt: Tessuti "Ivory Zin," 100% Linen. Lower Sleeve and collar: Tessuti "Lattice Floral" Lace, Ivory, 100% Rayon. Yoke and upper sleeve: Tessuti "French Cheese" Lace Knit, 100% Nylon. Lining: Tessuti "Silk White", 100% Rayon.
• Time To Create: This was my first project since starting pattern-making at college. It took me about 8 hours to work out the pattern. I did a quarter scale first, then a full scale flat pattern which I pinned onto the mannequin to check the fit. The sewing was done over a 3 week period and probably took 5 full days. I wanted to take care to finish it nicely and line it. I did lots of hand finishing too. I wanted to create a scalloped edge on the sleeve (the existing edge was finished square) so I cut around the flowers by hand and stitched a couple of extra flowers on to create a smooth curve. I also cut out some flowers and leaves and hand stitched them onto the collar. The lining is also stitched in by hand. The pin-tucking was done on my mum's machine which can take a twin needle and a special pin-tucking foot. A heavy thread is fed up through the base of the machine to pad out the pin-tucking to raise its profile.
• Dress Influenced By: I was influenced by the lace trends in the 2011 Spring Summer Collections. I particularly like the more breezy, casual, vintage-inspired day dresses that have a 70's style "cheese cloth and crocheted cotton lace" look. Ralph Lauren had a few like this in his collection. I wanted to create lots of texture with the different laces and the panelling and pin-tucking of the linen. I was aiming to create a vintage feel with a contemporary look.
• Additional Information: I want to thank my mum for all her guidance whilst sewing, and my talented friends who took time out of their busy schedules to help me with the shoot: Hamish Ta-Mé: photography, Tina Vaiasinni: makeup, Kelly Springnatic from Rzn8: hair, and my gorgeous model Claudia De Torres. I have wanted to go to New York my whole life… Fingers crossed!

About Me

• Name: Tracy James
• State: NSW
• Sewing Since: I was 15
• My Experience: I did textiles and design at school then entered into the world of costume design when at uni, designing and sewing costumes for many plays. My sewing was a bit ad hoc, I mainly used velchro for fastenings, as on stage I could get away with it! Years later I did a Masters in Design for film at AFTRS (1997) and worked in the costume departments of some big films after graduating, but in the design and digital departments rather than costume making. I also designed for the Sydney Theatre Company but had the privilege of having very experienced professional cutters and sewers making my designs. I never actually learned pattern making or garment construction so decided to study at FBI fashion college this year and have been delving into pattern making and garment construction since last term.
• My Sewing Goals: After ten years out of the costume world and working in advertising, I have really missed textiles and decided to finally learn to sew properly! It is a revelation to finally understand the science of pattern making and to learn construction from scratch. I want to be able to make beautifully constructed and well finished clothing (for my own label hopefully) so I decided to go back and learn the art from square one.
• Additional Information: Fashion! History, art, design, textiles, travel, food....My 4 year old son Darcy